Authentic Japanese Sushi Restaurant - SUSHIZANMAI

Ups and Downs Together with Tsukiji, and the Time to Return the Favor #2

<<In 2013, when Washoku (Japanese cuisine) was registered as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, Tsukiji — as the origin of Washoku — became a global brand. We have a strong connection with Tsukiji>> 

At the first auction of the year at Toyosu Market, a record-breaking bid to purchase a single tuna for 333.6 million yen was made. January 2019
At the first auction of the year at Toyosu Market, a record-breaking bid to purchase a single tuna for 333.6 million yen was made. January 2019

I have continued to remain closely connected with Tsukiji for almost 50 years, ever since 1973, when I joined a fishery company at the age of 20. When I was younger, I used to run inside and outside of Tsukiji. It was an incredibly busy place, full with energy. Although I loved studying about fish, I was often yelled at, because everyone was busy, and I was in their way. The market was not an easy place to jump into at the beginning. But one has to find a way, otherwise they cannot survive in this business. That’s why whenever I worked at a shop that processed fish, I often asked about what came through, about the taste, and whether there was any money to be made from it. I was having so much fun, because everything was new to me.
Instead of just delivering to a store, I took the delivery all the way to the back of the storage. If the storage was messy, I organized the stacks, and cleaned it, making sure everything was tidy after I delivered my goods. Although nobody was watching, I was very thorough with my job. After about three months have passed like this, I would get asked here and there if I had something to sell. That’s how I slowly built my clientele.

<<Branched out on my own in September 1989, and proceeded to start close to 80 businesses aside from fishery such as lunch boxes, karaoke parlors, and other. But with the bursting of the economic bubble, my successful businesses immediately changed for the worse>>

During the economic bubble all of Japan was in a frenzy, and Tsukiji — just by its location — stuck out like a sore thumb. I often heard people talking behind our backs, that the “Sushi shops in Tsukiji aren’t interested in making sushi, they’re holding on to bank interest rates.” Although I had no ties with investments, I had to scramble to pay back loans after the economy crashed. All the banks who were begging us to borrow money flipped, and started requesting their money back.
The turning point came in 1997. While I was away on business, a person in charge of our main bank came and requested a rewrite of the bill of exchange. My wife stamped the approval, but it was only later we learned, it included fine print that read “loans to be paid in lump” just for that year. Just one sentence inside a thick agreement document, chances of noticing were rather inexistent. Later, we were notified that unless the loan of 40-something million was paid back in lump, our business was to be handled by the Resolution and Collection Corporation. I could not believe that a bank we trusted would add such an important text without any explanation. I almost lost my temper, but it was too late. I had to liquidate my entire business and started a small sushi shop with the remaining 2 million at hand. I was 45 years old, and had to start from scratch.

<<The effects of the economic crash were also felt in Tsukiji. Many small shops and restaurants with failed investments disappeared, vacant lots and spaces multiplied. Number of visitors that averaged up to 6 million annually was down to 1.5 million. It was at this time that a small sushi shop trying to make a comeback received an unexpected proposal>>

Although our sushi shop was small (33.1 sqm) with no counters and only 186 table seats, we found success with our seafood bowl menus. We just sourced fresh seafood and made sure to offer it at open and affordable prices. Slowly, the tables have turned, and there were always lines of people waiting. One day, Mr. Fukuyo Ogawa, the chairman of Akatorii, an established store selling lacquerware and porcelain tableware just outside Tsukiji, visited my restaurant. “Tsukiji is really in a need of help. I will let you use my shop, and in return, I want you to help us get more visitors.” He then proceeded to offer me a prime location just outside Tsukiji. Even when I declined the offer due to not having any collateral, he said, “That can wait, but we can set it at 10 million. I just want you to help us return Tsukiji back to its glory days.” Along with the help from a representative from Dai-Ichi Kangyo Bank, this was the moment I decided to take on the challenge.
There had been times when I lost everything, including myself. But from there I had — honestly — worked to the best of my capabilities. The fact that someone had watched me work myself up made me overwhelmed with emotion. I was ready to return the favor now. I promised that I will build a sushi place to attract more visitors, and to help Tsukiji. This was the moment in April 2003, when the SUSHIZANMAI Honten (The Main Store), Japan’s first-ever sushi restaurant open 24 hours a day all year round was established.

(Interviewer: Masatoshi Ono)

Photo by Atari Haruna

Born in 1952, in the town of Sekiyado (present Noda City) in Chiba Prefecture. Graduated from Chuo University, Faculty of Law (Correspondence Course). After completion of middle school, joined the student platoon of the 4th Technical School of Japan Air Self-Defense Force. Retired from service in 1974. Joined a fishery company after working part-time jobs. Branched out on his own in 1979. In 2001, opened SUSHIZANMAI Honten (The Main Store), Japan’s first-ever sushi restaurant open 24 hours a day all year round, in the Tsukiji Outer Market.

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